Fine dining Posts

Chocolate tart and crème brûlée at Fraser’s in Kings Park

Chocolate Tart at Frasers Restaurant

Through a combo of working away and family holidays, the Welshman and I hadn’t seen each other in a few weeks so we decided a fancy dinner was in order. We considered the usual favourites, but decided to try something different: Fraser’s in Kings Park.

I’d never been to Fraser’s before, and truthfully, I’d heard its reputation relied on an outstanding location and not much else. But I’d also heard rumours of an impressive refurbishment, so I put on a little black dress and some ridiculously high heels, and we fronted up for an early dinner on a Friday night.

Parking was free and plentiful; always a good thing. There was a wedding reception in progress on the upper level, which is where we entered (The poor bridal party had their backs to the Perth skyline – what’s with that?). We walked down to the lower floor and into a beautiful wood-panelled room with two levels of seating, lots of booths and floor-to-ceiling glass windows with a view through the trees to the skyline. It was a lovely dining area.

Frasers Restaurant Interior

We chose a bottle of Redbank Long Paddock Pinot Gris, and started with ciabatta bread with Margaret River olive oil. The wine was light and smooth, and the ciabatta did exactly what it says on the tin. I guess bread can’t always be too exciting.

For entrée we shared the sashimi (Tasmanian salmon, bluefin tuna, hiramasa kingfish,
soy, pickled ginger and wasabi) for $22. It was served on a bed of ice slivers, and the taste matched the presentation – just beautiful. We also shared the pan fried goats cheese gnocchi with wild mushrooms and burnt butter sauce, also $22.

Look, I never order gnocchi. It’s just potato balls in sauce, right? But this gnocchi… it was incredible. It was served as four big cheesy chunks with a light coating of mushrooms and sauce. Very very rich, but sooo good. I’m sold.

For mains we shared the roast duck breast and confit ‘sausage’ with pistachio and beetroot for $44, and the 350g Kilcoy scotch fillet of beef served with salt roast potato, braised shallot and béarnaise sauce for $44. Usually I love a good duck dish but I found this one a tiny bit lacking – it just wasn’t as tasty as I expected. The steak, however, was cooked perfectly and the béarnaise sauce was very morish.

But on to dessert (my favourite part!) The Welshman scorned the idea of sharing only one dessert (do you see why we’ve been together this long?) so we ordered two, at the waitress’s recommendation: Rich Valrhona chocolate tart with brandy snap and vanilla bean ice cream, and crème brûlée with pistachio ice cream and pashmak, both $15.

Creme Brulee at Frasers Restaurant

The chocolate tart was a little less smooth than I expected – even a tiny bit cake-y – but tasted pretty good nonetheless. And the crème brûlée was rich and delicious, and has renewed my desire to make a successful crème brûlée at home.

The final bill was eye-wateringly pricey, especially when we found out our bottled water cost $8. But the service was fantastic throughout the whole night and the view through the trees to the sparkling lights of the city was pretty enchanting.

Frasers Restaurant City View

I’d definitely go to Fraser’s again. Next time we might save a few dollars by sharing an entrée and dessert, while still enjoying the beautiful atmosphere and sense of occasion that Fraser’s creates.

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Chocolate Fudge Sundae, Mascarpone Cheesecake and more at Must Winebar, Highgate

must winebar cheesecake strawberry sorbet

I’m a big believer in celebrating romance even when there’s no occasion for it. Who says it has to be Valentine’s Day before you’ll fork out for some fine dineyness with your bonny belle or beefy beau? Mmm, beef…

Last weekend was one such non-occasion, and I booked the Welshman and myself a table at Must Winebar in Highgate. I’d never been to Must despite having lived in the area, although I’ve had many a rowdy night and lazy lunch at the Queens across the road.

The Welshman and I spent the afternoon watching the Wales v France Rugby World Cup semi-final, and were both quite devastated when Wales lost by just one point. Talk about bandwagon-jumping – I’d never watched a game of rugby in my life before this year’s World Cup, but I applied myself with fervour just for the hell of it, and now can talk converted tries and knock-ons like a seasoned old punter who shakes their fist at the cracked old pub TV, not noticing their mug of beer has upended and has sloshed amber liquid down their faded rugby jersey.

But I digress. We were a bit down after the heartbreakingly close match (me, feeling down about a sports match! Feels strange just writing it) so going out to dinner was a pleasant cheer-upper.

Must is a regular on the best-bar/restaurant-in-Perth lists, and you can see why when you walk in – the lighting is dim and moody but not dingey, and the décor is stylish and neutral, with lots of dark reds and creams. The lower part of the room has a bar running down one side and a parallel wine rack partition in the centre, with dining tables clustered on the other side of that. Overlooking all this is another dining area with a gallery-style railing, and we were seated at the edge of this. Ours was a fantastic spot, especially as I have a sniper-like need to survey the whole room from where I’m sitting.

Must Winebar interior

Despite the people milling and chatting around the bar, the noise level was just low enough for us to talk comfortably. And the menu was certainly one to be discussed, with plenty of rich-sounding dishes to try. We started with the Chicken Liver Parfait with Grenache Jelly and Melba Toast for $18, as well as the Twice Baked Porcini Mushroom Soufflé and Mushroom Crème Sauce for $25.

The parfait was basically a pâté, and I felt it was only marginally better than one from the supermarket. I’ve been spoilt by Cream Restaurant’s pâté, which is so incredibly morish, and now I expect that from every restaurant. But at $18, you do, right? In contrast, the mushroom soufflé was light, creamy, and simply delicious. I would never associate mushrooms with soufflés, but this combination was incredible.

For our main meals, we chose the Rabbit Pie and Carrot Puree with Braised Black Pig Bacon and Lentils with Madeira Jus for $39, and the Chargrilled Butterfield Sirloin Stead (270g, dry aged for 28 days) with Béarnaise Sauce, Frites and Watercress Salad, $46.

The rabbit pie was very thick and wintery, with good solid pastry and nice slivers of meat inside. And the steak was fantastic – very tender and juicy.

We were both pretty full, but that didn’t stop us from ordering a dessert each. All five of the menu choices sounded equally scrumptious but we settled on the Hot Fudge Sundae with Honeycomb, Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce, plus the Lemon Mascarpone Cheesecake with Wild Strawberry Sorbet, Blackcurrant Coulis and Strawberries, both $16.

I always wonder about claims that an ingredient is ‘wild’. Does that mean some poor schmo actually treks out into the wilderness with a basket?

The hot fudge sundae sounded great in theory, but then again, so do lingerie parties and wearing glittery pink veils on hens’ nights. In practice, not so fabulous. The honeycomb didn’t taste light and sugary, but… burnt. And the rest was just cream and ice cream with some chocolate sauce poured in; not exactly a flavour sensation.

Must Winebar chocolate honeycomb sundae

The lemon marscapone cheesecake with its accompaniment of berries, however, actually was fabulous. The cheesecake was sweet, fluffy and smooth, and the sorbet and coulis complemented it really well. I wish I’d ordered two instead of the sundae!

I can see why Must has a great reputation; the wines we ordered were lovely, the ambience was busy but stylish, and the service was excellent. When the food was good it was very very good, but when it wasn’t good it was… not bad, just mediocre. I’m a little surprised there was mediocrity at all, given how much people rave about the joint, but perhaps it was just one of those nights?

I’ll definitely go back to Must, though I don’t think it will make it onto my list of staple fine dining destinations. There are too many others in Perth to check out before this one gets a top spot.

Must Winebar
519 Beaufort St
Highgate, Western Australia
(08) 9328 8255

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Pavlova, Chocolate Fondant and more at Cream Restaurant

Pavlova with berries at Cream restaurant

I don’t know why Cream in East Perth is my favourite modern-Australian restaurant. Maybe it’s the maroon-and-chocolate colour scheme, the dim lighting, the lovely wait staff, the excellent food, or the fact that an entire length of wall is clad in black-and-red faux fur.

I think I just answered my own question.

I made the reservation for Saturday on the Wednesday before. “6.30pm, please, for two people,” I said to the lady on the phone. “And, um, do you think we could have a table next to the furry wall?”

With supreme willpower, I held back from my usual habit of lurching-forward-with-an-overshare and didn’t tell her that last time, I rubbed my face on the wall at regular intervals throughout the meal. There are some things restaurant people don’t want to know about their customers and what they do to their expensive décor.

The Welshman and I fronted up in our Saturday best but to my utter dismay, we were led away from the fur and I found myself sitting facing a plain beige wall about a metre in front of my face. The Welshman faced a beige partition. I have beige walls at home. This did not feel like being in a restaurant.

Cocktails at Cream Restaurant I flagged down a waitress and explained that my furry wall reservation had been confirmed by the lady on the phone. All three of us simultaneously glanced towards the furry wall and the tables that were entirely occupied by cosy couples who I instantly imagined were eyeing me smugly.

But I’m not a bad person deep down, so I asked the lady not to attempt a coup, but could we please sit somewhere that wasn’t beige? She led us to a table at the front window, which had much more ambience and a full view of the rest of the restaurant. I ordered a berry cocktail, the Welshman had a Long Island iced tea, and suddenly all was right with the world. (Almost. I know I’m sounding rather preoccupied with this, but, um, the furry wall? I felt a bit like Milton in Office Space when his desk keeps getting moved.)

My tax return was footing the bill so we decided to go all out, ordering a starter, two entrees, two mains and two desserts. The cognac pate with caramelised onions was a great way to start the feast, and that was followed by the grilled field mushroom stuffed with goats’ cheese, lemon and thyme, and also the duck spring rolls from the specials menu. The mushroom was rich and lovely and the spring rolls sufficiently tasty, and although they were pricey for what they were, I was dining at Cream. There’s a lot you get that isn’t to do with the food you’re paying for.

On to Mains: usually I go for the pork belly, but we decided to try something different. I chose the rabbit pie (run rabbit, run, rabbit, run run run…) from the specials menu and the Welshman went straight for the slow braise of baby beef. We swapped dishes halfway through so I got to taste both. The rabbit pie was nice but not overwhelming, as I know the pork belly to be, but the beef was cooked sooo nicely and gets full marks.

For dessert we had the pavlova with berries, and the soft French chocolate cake with raspberry ice cream. With its rich, oozy centre, the chocolate cake was essentially a fondant, and tasted exactly the same as the fondants I had made at home the night before. Which tells me one of three things: A) fondant recipes are pretty universal, B) The Cream waitstaff had been into my fridge, or C) I am an amazing cook with Michelin-star chef-like levels of incredibleness. I’m going with C because my ego is not big enough already.

Chocolate French fondant cake at Cream Restaurant

Cream’s fondant really was delicious (see point C, above) and the raspberry a different take from the usual vanilla bean flavour. It really did taste like raspberries, but I’m not sure if the two elements went 100 per cent well together. Maybe 98 or 99. I may have to try it several times more to decide.

The pavlova was lovely – nice and crunchy meringue, with that nice mild softness in the centre – and although it was covered with berries that are usually tart, the dish was all sweetness. It was a great way to round off the meal.

While I was in the ladies’ room afterwards, the chef visited the table and apologised to the Welshman about the lack of furry wall; apparently it was she who took the reservation. She also comped us our first two cocktails – how nice of her. I wish I had been there to compliment her on the food. When anything eventful happens in life, it’s always just after I’ve nipped off to the loo.

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